EarthLOG 26 to 30 October 2000


the K.L. experience (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

Note: This is a supplementary story on my trip. Pictorial version available at On Location Report : the Malaysia Astrophotography Exhibition 2000

25th October, Wednesday, 9.30pm

At Tanjong Pagar Railway Station. There was only one train at the station so I just assumed that this was going to Kuala Lumpur. This was my first memory of travelling on the night train. I was in Coach L2, bunk bed No. 14. Checking in was easy enough. The Malaysian customs was situated at Tanjong Pagar itself. Before boarding, the usual customs drill of passport and baggage check applies. Finding the coach was easy enough. Finding the bunk proved more challenging. The bed numbers were stickers located in the least visible place: inside the bunks and on the sides which were partially hidden by the curtains that shield the bunk inhabitant from the common passageway. I don't think I saw the bunk numbers for the top bunks. Only the even numbers that designate the lower bunks, thereafter you had to guess where your bunk was.

There were 32 bunks, forming 8 sets of double bunks that lined either side of the coach. Curtains with velcro could be drawn to privatized one's bunk.

I was pretty glad to see that I got the lower bunk. The dimensions were cosy enough: 1.85m x 1m x 1m. The top bunk looked smaller by comparison. But comfort aside, I was pretty worried being in the lower bunk and prayed the person on the top bunk would be light. It didn't look very secure to me; It was some fibreglass material supported by four strategic metal L-plates. I got a mother and a little toddler for bunkmates. (Father and 4-year old brother got the opposite top bunks.) Some part of me wanted to offer my bunk to them because I was afraid the baby might fall off the bunk. They seem comfortable enough and the little one was quite happy to view the rest of the coach from his top bunk.

10.10pm, the train left the station. Honestly, I had been terribly sick from a possible viral flu for the past two weeks since I got back from a previous trip to Malaysia. I was still feverish even after the past 3 days of continuous medication. I was merrily betting that I would have to be hospitalized the very moment I got back on Singapore soil. 11pm, we cleared the Woodlands Immigration Checkpoint. Bunks found, curtains drawn, sleep washed down the train aisles.

26th October, Thursday.

Next I awoke it was 6am. We were due to arrive in K.L. in about 20 minutes. And miracle of miracles, the fever finally broke and body aches that had incapacitated me for the past one week vanished! That was the best news ever, and I was feeling great except maybe for a rusty throat that needed more time to recuperate. 6.10am, a train official slid into our coach. "Kuala Lumpur... Kuala Lumpur..." he announced curtly as he faithfully clanged each of the upper bunks' railing with his pen. (Note: If you are a heavy sleeper, it would be much wiser to use an alarm clock.) The neighbours stirred and in 10 minutes, the coach was a hive of activity as everyone prepped for disembarkation.

6.25am, Kuala Lumpur train station. Four train platforms that formed the heart of the station. The cream-coloured building is vaguely reminiscent of colonial times with its high ceilings, elegantly arched doorways and massive supporting columns. Structurally, the building looked grand but the plastic seats that scattered through the station looked in desperate need of retirement to the scrapeyard. Years of supporting heavy baggage loads and the butts of countless people filtering through the place have left the grimey chairs sagging tiredly from their rusted metal frames; some are literally hanging on for dear user-life by their screws.

7am. My friend Sua arrived to pick me up from the station. That was very kind of him as I can imagine he must be really tired from the past night's exhibition set-up. Plus, today was the exhibition's opening day and he would be busy enough with all the running around to organize everything. First stop, Bobby's place which also served as the Starhunter Astronomical Society's clubhouse. On the way, I also witnessed my first car accident on the Malaysian highway. A car had crashed into the seperation barrier ad was still smoking from the impact. Sua pulled over to see if he could help in any way, but there were a couple of others who had already reached the scene so we continued on our way. Along the roads, two dead cats, obvious hits of the day. That gave me my first inkling of how treacherous the K.L. roads could be.

Now a little detail on the clubhouse which I personally found rather fascinating. As one entered the main hallway, 2 baby dobsonians and boxes housing equipment lined the sides. In the living room, a mural depicting various constellations from the Orion patch draped the side of one wall. Sporadic pictures of various deep-sky objects were hung on the pillars and walls. The living room's main decoration piece was an antique telescope mount constructed from a strange metal (cast-iron?) with sturdy (pine?) wood legs that was said to be over a hundred years' old. I believe that. There was a brass 3-inch refractor telescope that accompanied this altazimuth ensemble. Now that was one beautiful piece of craftwork. The machining of the mount gears were extremely fine and smooth. The gear ratio was near invisible to the naked eye and impossible to count. When the scope was placed atop the mount in horizontal position, the eyehole was some 1.8m (6ft) off the ground level. Nice. :)

The most interesting room there is easily Bobby's office which was crammed with astronomical gadgets and books of sorts, a huge 3 by 4 Milky Way poster with glow-in-the-dark stars was the central piece that framed one side of the 4 walls. "Let me show you something very special," Bobby said smilingly as he ushered me into his office and showed me the poster. He closed the door and switched off the lights. The poster came to life.. *whoa..* the entire office came to life! Stars glowed from every inch of the office. Suddenly there were no more walls, replaced by a sky of many glowing points. Bobby had painstakingly recreated the whole universe in his office. Amazing! I could discern a couple of rough constellations like Scorpius, Gemini, and Orion. (Too many glowing points in non-standard magnitudes to figure.) Very nice. :)

A quick breakfast of dim sum at a local eatery and we were off to Sua's place to freshen up before we headed down to the exhibition venue. 9.30am, we made a slight detour to one of the local Buddhist temples to collect something. They were filming some Hindi movie there with the male and female leads (in a Buddhist temple?) A short musical take (3 re-takes) of the female lead twirling into the male lead's arms (probably 15 seconds) and that was it. Surprisingly, there was a small female crowd clamoring to take photos with the male lead. I guess he must be a big star then. The filming was fast and it was over, the Bollywood stars were swiftly led to to a waiting Mercedes.

(Ok, ok, we're getting to the exhibition.. :)

En route to the Mines Shopping Fair. One thing I learnt real quick is that it takes a long time to get to any one point in K.L. city. Kuala Lumpur is a huge city area, layered with kilometres of highways and side roads. Cars are the only way to get to any point fast. A lot of time can be spent on the roads getting from point A to point B. And good luck to you if you missed a turning and have to retrace your route. There are a lot of toll booths too along all major highways, and a number of non-standard toll systems that can be quite confusing.

10.30am, Mines Shopping Fair looked like any other modern shopping mall. It has the same international brands and the same fastfood outlets. The exhibition was held on the second level, the Porte Cochere area which is a pretty huge space. Everything was set-up the night before. More impressively, everything had been built from scratch by hand, courtesy of an amateur carpenter-astronomer from the Starhunter Group.

Sua had introduced me to as many on site astronomers as he could. I myself was having a little difficulty orientating from one face and name to another. Everyone was teetering on happy anxiety as the time for the opening ceremony approached. Once, the opening ceremony commenced, the exhibition flowed on smooth as silk until its last day.

One distinction that really caught my admiration was how coordinated the Committee was. They could juggle the exhibition, and look after their overseas guests too. Every night's closure of the exhibition only accentuated their efficiency, within 30 minutes, they were packed and ready to go. The final day's closure took under an hour to disassemble. And even with the hive of activity, they seemed to be having the time of their lives. (No exaggeration here.)

Despite my sore throat and coughing fits, I'd say I too had a wonderful time. I missed a good deal of great food because I could hardly swallow a thing. As for my newfound friends, it wasn't easy juggling between the exhibition and hosting and travelling and sight-seeing and finding food (and all other little details.)

The exhibition continues in Penang, Malaysia in February 2001.

By Lin . 3rd November 2000, Friday.